Acclimation (acclimation)

The period when wood sits in the home so its moisture content (MC) reaches equilibrium with indoor conditions before installation. We verify with moisture meters on both the flooring and subfloor and proceed only when the materials are within manufacturer/NWFA tolerances (often within ~2-4 percentage points of each other). Proper acclimation reduces post-install gaps, cupping, and squeaks, especially important in Denver/Boulder’s low-humidity winters.

Aluminum-Oxide Finish (aluminum-oxide-finish)

A very durable factory-applied (prefinished) urethane topcoat loaded with microscopic aluminum-oxide particles. Excellent abrasion resistance and immediate usability after install. Repairs are typically done via board replacement rather than spot refinishing.

Ambient Relative Humidity (RH) (ambient-relative-humidity)

The percentage of water vapor in the air inside your home. Hardwood performs best when indoor RH is kept roughly 30-50% year-round (and temperature ~60-80°F). In Colorado, a humidifier in winter and dehumidification in summer help maintain stability and reduce seasonal movement.

Base Shoe / Quarter Round (base-shoe-quarter-round)

Small finishing trims that cover the expansion gap where flooring meets the wall. Base shoe is slimmer and more flexible (great with existing baseboards). Quarter round is larger and conceals bigger gaps. Both are caulked/painted to match trim or stained to match floors.

Bevel (Micro vs. Square Edge) (bevel)

The edge profile on prefinished boards. Micro-bevel (tiny V-groove) visually softens minor height differences between boards and hides lippage on prefinished floors. Square edge aims for a seamless look and is typical of site-finished floors after sanding. Micro-bevels also help control edge chipping.

Blocking (Joist Blocking) (blocking)

Short pieces of lumber installed between joists to stiffen the floor system, reducing bounce, deflection, and squeaks. We recommend blocking where appliances, islands, or stair landings concentrate loads, or anywhere the subfloor needs extra rigidity before hardwood is installed.

Board Replacement (board-replacement)

A repair method where damaged planks are surgically removed and new boards are feathered in to align grain and color. On site-finished floors we blend stain and sheen; on prefinished, we match species, grade, width, and finish. Proper replacement preserves pattern flow and avoids obvious “patch” lines.

Buff & Coat (screen-and-recoat)

Chevron (chevron)

A decorative pattern where boards meet at a mitered angle (commonly 45° or 60°) to form continuous V’s. It demands precise layout, stable subfloors, and careful border work. Compared with herringbone, chevron has a cleaner, directional flow and often pairs with inlaid borders.

Crowning (crowning)

Boards are higher in the center than at the edges which are often the long-term result of sanding a cupped floor too soon or prolonged moisture on the surface. The fix is to stabilize moisture first; once wood returns to normal MC, corrective sanding may be possible.

Cupping (cupping)

Board edges rise relative to the center due to moisture imbalance (usually more moisture below than above). First step is always eliminate the moisture source (crawlspace humidity, slab vapor, appliance leaks). Many floors flatten as they dry; sanding happens only after MC stabilizes.

Dust Containment Sanding (dust-containment-sanding)

Professional sanding with HEPA-filtered vacuums and containment to keep the home clean and safe. We isolate work areas, maintain negative airflow when needed, and use multi-stage filtration, which minimizes cleanup and protects finishes in adjacent rooms.

Engineered Hardwood (engineered-hardwood)

Real-wood wear layer over stable plywood/HDF cores. It’s more dimensionally stable than solid wood, so it excels with wide planks and basements. Refinishability depends on wear-layer thickness (many 3–6 mm products can be sanded/refinished once or more; thin veneers usually cannot).

Expansion Gap (expansion-gap)

Perimeter space (often 3/8″-3/4″, per product) left at walls, columns, and fixed objects to allow seasonal movement. We hide gaps with base and shoe molding. Skipping this step risks buckling or squeaks when humidity rises.

Floating Installation (floating-installation)

Boards lock together over an underlayment (acoustic and/or vapor retarder) without fastening to the subfloor. Great over slabs and remodels, with faster install and easier plank repair. Large spaces may require expansion breaks and attention to flatness tolerances.

Flush-mount Vents / Registers (flush-mount-vents)

Wood floor supply vents integrated flush with surrounding planks for a seamless look. Installed during or shortly after install, finished to match, and typically removable for cleaning. Requires precise duct sizing and layout; ideal where you want uninterrupted sightlines (entries, great rooms).

Glue-Down (glue-down)

Boards are bonded to the subfloor using trowel-applied adhesive (often urethane/MS polymer). Offers a solid feel, excellent sound deadening, and compatibility with radiant heat (check manufacturer). Requires very flat, clean subfloors and, on concrete, attention to moisture/vapor limits.

Hardwax Oil / Penetrating Oil (hardwax-oil)

A penetrating finish that soaks into the wood fibers and leaves a low-sheen, natural look. Pros: spot-repairable, hides micro-scratches, warm feel underfoot. Cons: needs more frequent maintenance than film-build poly and is less chemical/standing-water resistant. Great for homeowners who value a hand-rubbed aesthetic and easy touch-ups.

Herringbone (herringbone)

A classic pattern where rectangular planks meet end-to-side at 90° (not mitered). Layout starts from a precise centerline; border and field alignment are critical. Herringbone adds architectural interest and performs well in large or formal spaces.

Janka Hardness (janka-hardness)

A measure of a wood species’ dent resistance. Examples: Red Oak ~1290, Maple ~1450, Hickory ~1820. Higher numbers resist dents better, but finish system, texture, and maintenance have an equal or greater impact on real-world durability.

Medallion / Inlay (medallion-inlay)

Decorative elements—logos, borders, compass roses—set into the floor. Installed flush and then finished to match. Proper design allows for wood movement and ensures the inlay doesn’t telegraph or crack as seasons change.

Moisture Barrier / Vapor Retarder (vapor-retarder)

Materials that slow or block moisture from below. For nail-down over wood subfloors, a vapor retarder (e.g., specialized paper or membrane) is used; over concrete, use approved adhesives, membranes, or underlayments meeting the product’s moisture limits. Choice depends on install method and subfloor type.

Moisture Meter (moisture-meter)

Tools (pin and pinless) that measure wood and subfloor moisture content. We meter every job to confirm acclimation, check concrete moisture conditions, and document readings before installation or refinishing.

Oil-Based Polyurethane (oil-based-poly)

Warm, amber-toned finish with high film build and excellent abrasion resistance. It has longer dry and cure times and a stronger odor/VOC profile; expect careful ventilation and a longer period before rugs and furniture return.

Water-Based Polyurethane (water-based-poly)

Clear to slightly warm finish with low odor, fast dry times, and non-yellowing appearance. With modern hardeners, water-based systems deliver durability comparable to oil in most homes and allow quicker return to service which is useful for busy households.

Over-Wood / Under-Wood (Lippage) (overwood-underwood)

A small height difference between adjacent boards. On site-finished floors we remove most lippage during sanding; on prefinished, micro-bevels help mask it. Excessive lippage points to subfloor flatness or milling issues that we address before or during install.

Parquet (parquet)

Geometric wood patterns (e.g., Versailles, basketweave, brick) laid as tiles or custom fields. Requires stable, flat subfloors and is typically glue-down. Parquet adds texture and visual rhythm, ideal for foyers and formal rooms.

Prefinished Hardwood (prefinished)

Factory-finished boards cured under UV lights—ready to live on immediately after installation. Extremely durable surface treatments (often aluminum-oxide). You’ll see micro-bevels between boards by design; repairs involve board replacement rather than site spot-finishing.

Site-Finished Hardwood (site-finished)

Installed raw, then sand-stained-sealed on site. Delivers a seamless look, custom colors, and flush transitions. Requires careful dust containment and a short home-access plan during coating/curing, but offers the most flexibility.

Screen & Recoat (screen-and-recoat)

Maintenance service: we chemically clean contaminants, lightly abrade the existing topcoat, then apply a fresh coat of finish. Restores sheen and protection without a full sand. It’s the best way to extend floor life before wear reaches bare wood.

Self-Leveling Underlayment (SLU) (self-leveling-underlayment)

A pumpable or trowelable cement product used to flatten subfloors to tight tolerances (commonly ≤1/8″ in 6′ for hardwood, check product). Requires the correct primer, moisture checks, and cure time before wood goes down.

Subfloor (subfloor)

The structural layer beneath the hardwood, the plywood/OSB on framing or concrete slab. It must be dry, flat, clean, and sound. For nail-down, a well-fastened wood subfloor is ideal; for concrete, we use glue-down or floating systems per manufacturer specs.

Radiant Heat Compatibility (radiant-heat-compatibility)

Guidelines for hardwood over in-floor heat. Many engineered products are approved and more dimensionally stable than solid. Typical best practices: limit surface temps, ramp heat slowly, maintain indoor RH ~30–50%, and choose install methods (often glue-down with approved adhesive) and species that handle movement well. We verify the manufacturer’s radiant-heat rating before install.